Having trouble adjusting those triple carbs on the Eldorado? Need to know the correct color code for Cinnamon Firemist Metallic? Well, we may or may not have the answer, but we can point you in the right direction.

Your greatest resource, of course, are the masters of all things Cadillac–our club experts. These guys literally wrote the book on your car. Their expertise is available to all Cadillac & LaSalle Club members. Find them here http://www.cadillaclasalleclub.org/technicians

Or, if you would like to chat online about your Cadillac issues, visit the Cadillac-LaSalle Club forum and find some like-minded individuals.

The following link offers some advise on flathead engine rebuilding

ValveSpringSeats_0787TSS.pdf

Also find here an exhaustive list of vendors who specialize in Cadillac parts.

http://www.vintagepartsource.com/cadillac%20parts.htm

Try this site for some general restoration tips:

http://www.secondchancegarage.com/index.cfm

Here’s a good article about power brakes provided by the 63-64 Chapter

Rebuilt Original Power Brake Booster and Master Cylinder Installed

http://6364cadillac.ning.com/profiles/blog/show?id=6543066%3ABlogPost%3A51033

NEWS FROM THE CHIEF JUDGE
Changes in Judging Rules – Now & 2017
by: William C. “Bill” Anderson, P.E.

The Cadillac & LaSalle Club Board of Directors approved a program in January 2015 authorizing significant changes in the judging of cars at CLC National Events. The Judging Committee is hard at work developing the procedures to implement these changes.
2016

The judging at the Grand National in Las Vegas in April and the Fall Festival in September embrace some of these changes including:

Cars entered in Touring are not excluded from a first place prize or forced to compete in the Primary Division if they score more than 92 points.
All judges’ scores are counted; no longer are the high and low judges’ results excluded when determining a car’s score.
Judges can collaborate with each other when judging cars.
Judges must attend a 2-hour seminar for training the day before cars are judged.
This is the last year for the Senior Division and the Senior Classes; in 2017 they will be included in the Primary Division.
2017

More changes will be phased in with the 2017 Grand National and Fall Festival Events including:

Cars up to 2007 can be entered in the Touring Class
Two different judging forms will be used in 2017 for Primary and Touring Divisions – one for cars in 1966 and before and different form for 1967 cars and after.
All cars that receive the required points for an award will receive that award regardless of the number of cars qualifying for a particular award.
Cars entered in the Primary Division can win a Senior, Senior Wreath or a Senior Crown award the first time they are shown if they achieve the points required — Senior Crown 99 to 100 points, Senior Wreath 97 to 98 points, and Senior 95 to 96 points. The medallions and adornments will continue, but there will be new trophies for these three Senior Awards. A special award will be awarded to Senior Crown cars that obtain 98 points or more when shown after achieving the Senior Crown prize.
A Specialty & Unique Division has been created for concept cars and special models, such as pickups and station wagons.
Modified cars will be judged in four classes – Hot Rods, Restomods, Mild Customs and Radical Customs — using procedures and judging forms specifically developed for them. First, Second, and Third prizes will be awarded in each class.

I will expand upon these and discuss other changes and topics related to judging in future News From the Chief Judge. If you have questions, please contact me at rivsrgr8@aol.com.

WHEN HORNS DON’T HONKKevin Rafferty Cascade RegionOne of the boxes of Cadillac junk that I drag to every swap meet is full of old horns. Generally, the horns prove to be a popular item. In a lot of cases though, I think folks are wasting their money when they buy them. This is because most horn problems are caused by factors other than the horns themselves.

Most problems are traceable to either the neutral safety switch (NSS) or the horn relay. The NSS contains a spring-loaded copper button which rides on the steering shaft. It transmits electrical current from the shaft to the horn lead. After years of operation, the button tends to wear down and loose contact with the shaft. This prevents horn operation. To check the NSS, remove it from the steering column (it’s located on top of the column near the floor). Examine the copper button and make sure it’s still spring loaded (by pressing on the end) and that it is still long enough to remain in contact with the shaft.

A simple way to see if the NSS is the problem is to temporarily eliminate it from the circuit. With the NSS removed, disconnect the horn lead from the switch. Connect a jumper wire between the horn lead and the steering shaft’s copper ring visible through the little hole. Press the horn button (or ring). If the horn beeps, the NSS is the problem.

Another common problem area is the horn relay which is usually located on the driver’s side inner fender. To test the relay, pull the car into the garage or other quiet area. With the engine off, press the horn button (or ring) and listen for a click under the hood. The click is the relay operating. If no click is heard, it’s time to test the relay. To do this, remove the plug from the relay and carefully record the color of the wire connected to each terminal. Place a jumper wire between the positive battery terminal and the relay terminal which was connected to the red wire. Connect a second jumper wire to the negative battery terminal. Touch this wire to the relay terminal which was connected to the brown (or tan) wire. The relay should click if it is operational. If not replace it. Even if the relay operates, it’s a good idea to replace it. They are not expensive, and available at most auto parts stores.  Neutral safety switches are an item available only as a used part.

Cars equipped with horn rings (’59 and earlier) also can develop problems with the horn switch itself. In most cases, these problems are the result of someone who has removed the horn ring in the past and chosen to reassemble it with less than the original number of parts. The only way to evaluate this is to remove the ring and check to see if all the parts are in place. Cadillac shop manuals usually provide an exploded view of the horn parts.

A final problem which I have seen on a few cars is a crushed steering column wire connector. This connector is a small round brass piece located at the top (steering wheel end) of the steering shaft. If a steering wheel puller is improperly used to remove the wheel, it can crush the wire connector in the process. Improper use of the puller is usually done by the same guy who put your horn back without all the parts.

Whatever the problem, it’s worth the time to fix the horns.